BALI SEA TRAVEL
There is four times as much sea in Indonesia as land and for
many centuries transportationamong the islands has been principally
by boat. Tiny ports are scattered all over the archipelago and
the only way to reach many areas is by sea.
To trawl by boat you need plenty of time. Most ships are small
and are at the mercy of the sea and the seasons. Think of it
as a romantic journey and don't be in a hurry.
Pelni (Pelayaran Nasional Indonesia), the national passenger
line, has 10 large ships (some 70 ships total) criss-crossing
the archipelago carrying up to 1,500 passengers each. These
boats travel on fixed schedules and the first and second class
cabins are comfortable. Check the route map above for destinations
served and contact Pelni's main office for a current schedule.
The new German-built passenger ships are modem and comfortable.
Fares are fixed, and there are up to 5 classes, determining
how many people share a cabin and kinds of services. Book through
travel agents in Bali.
To and From Bali
• Java to Bali. If you travel overland from Java, you
have to take the ferry. It's a pleasant half hour trip from
Ketapang to Gilimanuk, with many private and state-run services
that run continuously at 15-25 minute intervals. Getting on
can be a hassle during the Indonesian holidays when you may
have to wait several hours: best avoided.
• Bali to Lombok. You may also want to venture over to
Lombok. Most ferries leave from Padangbai in east Bali; there
are ferries daily every two hours beginning at 6 am and the
fare is Rp10,000. The rate for cars is Rp150,000.
• A more luxurious alternative on this route is the Mabua
Intan Express, a 40-meter catamaran that speeds at 60 km/h between
Benoa and Lembar, taking just 2 hours. Reclining seats, overhead
lockers, a bar and even special facilities for the handicapped
make this a luxury affair. There's one catch: in rough weather
the cat literally jumps over the waves, causing a lot of upset
stomachs.
Departures from Benoa are at 8arn and 2.30pm; from Lembar at
5pm. There are three classes: Economy Class for $25. Emerald
Class or Lower Deck costs $30 and includes a juice and a coffee.
Diamond Class or Upper Deck costs $25 and includes a snack,
juice, coffee and transfers at both ends of the line: on Lombok
to or from Matararn or Sengiggi; on Bali to or from Nusa Dua,
Kuta, Sanur or Denpasar. Mabua (Benoa harbor, Bali) or (Lembar
harbor, Lombok).