The black and white checkered
cloth standard of Bali's netherworld is nowhere more aptly hung
than on the ancient coral statues and shrines of Bali's largest
traditional village: Sanur. This was Bali's first beach resort
a place of remarkable contrasts.
Sanur today is a golden mile of Baliesque hotels that has attracted
millions of paradise seeking globetrotters. And yet, within the
very grounds of the 11-story The Grand Bali Beach Hotel, a war-reparation
gift from the Japanese, nestles the sacred and spiky temple of
Ratu Ayu of Singgi, the much feared spirit consort of Sanur's
fabled Black Barong.
Sanur is famous throughout Bali for its sorcery. Black and white
magic pervades the coconut groves of the resort hotels like an
invisible chess game. And yet the community is modern and prosperous.
Sanur is one of the few remaining brahman kuasa villages in Bali
controlled by members of the priestly caste - and boasts among
its charms some of the handsomest processions on the island, Bali's
only all female keris dance, the island's oldest stone inscription,
and the hotel world's most beautiful tropical garden. Even the
souvenirs sold on the beach - beautifully crafted kites and toy
outriggers are a cut above those found on the rest of the island.
Sanur is where Bali's first luxury beach hotel was built over
30 years ago, and has since been the spot for luxurious seaside
accommodation. Conveniently located near Denpasar on the main
road leading to the east, Sanur is not nearly as frenetic as Kuta,
nor as well-mannered as Nusa Dua. Many foreigners have built lavish
villas and bungalows here and this is the preferred place for
up-market, long-term stays on the island, especially in the BatuJimbar
and Belanjong areas.
The main attraction here is the white sand beach bordering a reef-sheltered
lagoon. The beach stretches south from the The Grand Bali Beach
Hotel and ends up in the mangrove marshes opposite Serangan Island.
Due to the protection of the lagoon, this beach is one of the
safest on the island, and thus perfect for families. There is
no surf apart from out on the reef, and one cannot swim at low
tide, but at other times this is the best place in Bali for windsurfing
and sailing.
Biking around Sanur is also fun. in Semawang, you can rent a bike
for Rp15,000/ day; try bargaining. The bicycles aren't the greatest.
It may be wise to pay more by renting through your hotel.
Sanur is an ideal base for trips to Bali's rice growing heartland
and the mountain areas. Rent a self-drive car or a minibus with
driver on a daily basis. There are car rental companies on JI.
Bypass Ngurah Rai and on JI. Danau Tamblingan. Cars and minibuses
for hire are found outside all major hotels, or go through one
of many car rental companies. |
