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Bali - Bedugul
A pleasant climate, splendid views, water sports on scenic Lake
Bratan, botanical gardens, fresh tropical fruits and vegetables,
these are but a few of the things Bedugul offers. Located 1,500
m above sea level, it gets chilly by late afternoon, so bring
your sweater. This is a favorite weekend retreat for Jakartans
and the local Balinese bourgeoisie.
Getting to know Bedugul
Bedugul's layout can be somewhat confusing, especially if you
arrive in late afternoon after the clouds have descended. Coming
from the south, there are two signposts to watch out for: "Bedugul
0.2 km" and "Bedugul." One might expect to find
the village here, but instead the road turns sharply to the left,
with a smaller road leading off to the right. The latter leads
to the Bedugul Hotel on the southwestern shore of the lake.
The main road continues past a number of hotels on the left until
it reaches the village of Bedugul. Here you find shops, a few
restaurants, a bank, telephone office (wartel), a market selling
local produce (including flowers, coffee and vanilla) and a lane
leading up to the botanical gardens (Kebun Raya).
Beyond the village the road descends towards the lake, turning
left at the Ashram Hotel. The road then continues north to Candi
Kuning. On the right hand side is the entrance to the Pura Ulun
Danu and other temples. A line of souvenir shops indicates the
way. A fee of Rpl,000 is required to enter the temple.
The walk from Bedugul market to the Ashram Hotel takes about 10
minutes. The temples on the shore are another 10 minutes further
on. From the market to the entrance of the botanical gardens takes
about 15 minutes on foot.
How to get to Bedugul
Bedugul is situated on the main road connecting north and south
Bali. It is the perfect place to stop for a night on an island
tour. Rent a car and explore the area at you own pace.
If you are going by public transport, catch a bemo from Ubung
terminal in Denpasar to Bedugul for Rp 3,000. The fare is the
same from Singaraja. The nicest way to get around Bedugul is on
foot in the invigorating mountain air. Or charter a bemo, carrying
up to seven persons, for about $10-$20 a day.
The High Read to Bedugul
Most people traveling between the highland resorts of
Kintamani and Bedugul travel the circuitous route via Singaraja
and the north coast to get from one to another. An alternative
route, used by very few people, leads south through the mountains,
offering spectacular scenery and a close look at the vanilla and
coffee producing area of the island.
The road is good enough for cars or motorbikes, although there
are several places where deep potholes make driving fast a big
risk. It is best is to allow half a day for the route between
Kintamani and Luwus, where you meet the main road between Denpasar
and Bedugul. This way you can stop along the way, have a coffee
in one of the villages and enjoy a leisurely ride.
From Kintamani, follow the main road north until just beyond Penulisan
and the Tegeh Koripan temple. Take the small road that branch
off to the left towards Belantih village. Continue west past Belantih
to Lampu and the neighboring village of Catur, where the road
bends south. Lawak village marks the beginning of the vanilla-growing
region where the harvest can often be seen drying in shelters.
After Belok (keep right) head for Pelaga. Just before the village
there's a sharp right turn which leads to a shortcut west to Lake
Bratan. Not many Balinese expose their vehicles to this road though,
as chances of ruining them or at least getting stuck are pretty
high. Another reason to avoid the shortcut and continue south
is that the best has yet to come.
Beyond Pelaga and Kiadan, the elevated area around Nungkung and
Sandakan is extremely beautiful. A bit further ahead lies the
Islamic village of Angan Tiga with it's small mosque. The next
village, Kerta, has a police post and even a bank. Past the bank
take the right turn to Bedugul (the road continues straight to
Denpasar which is only 32 km away). The stretch of road between
Kerta and Luwus via Peria is extremely bad. In Luwus you reach
the main road. Turn right for Bedugul or left for Mengwi and Denpasar.
Eating in Bedugul
There are only a few restaurants in Bedugul but they do cover
a wide price range. Opposite the road leading up to the botanical
gardens, on a right hand bend, there are three small eating places
serving cheap meals from 6 am to 7 pm. A good meal costs around
$1. Try the ferns (sayur pakul at Ananda I). Friendly service.
There are good restaurants in the main hotels: The Bedugul Hotel's
restaurant by the lake serves meals costing around $7. Try the
Chinese food at Pacung, especially their crab fried rice (nasi
goreng kepiting). The Bali Handara's Kamandalu Restaurant is more
up market. Strawberry Hill serves tasty Indonesian favorites,
soups, fresh salads, steaks, and fish. On chilly days and evenings
savor a drink at Bedugul's only bar beside a log fire managed
by the owners of Poppies in Kuta.
Indonesian food is available in front of Ulun Danu temple in small
food stalls-not recommended for those with sensitive stomachs.
Overlooking the temple and a big banyan tree is the Perama Tea
House, a small restaurant by the lake. The open-air patio is a
pleasant spot for a refreshing cup of tea. Try their pisang bakar
Candikuning grilled banana with grated cheese on top.
Ayam Bakar Taliwang Bersaudara is just before the famous Ulun
Danu temple and has a view over the temple and the lake. It is
a local favorite restaurant. The spicy hot dishes from Lombok
are just right for the cold weather. Order the sate or tofu if
you don't like food that are too spicy. Jember Indah is on the
higher slopes just outside Bedugul. Serves cheap east Javanese
food and has beautiful views down to the sea. Try the soto Madura
for $4. Minang Saiyo, in front of Candi Kuning market, sells spicy
Sumatran Padang fare gain. Don't feel reluctant to offer half
the asking price. Also available are fresh flowers, including
wild orchids and a number of other ornamental plants.
Some small shops selling souvenir crafts are found around Pura
Ulun Danu and the lake. Shops in the Bedugul Hotel compound sell
negative films.
Bedugul Activities - watersports
A range of water sports are available next to the Ulun Danu temple
and at the lakeside hotels such as Bedugul and Lila Graha. The
usual rates, including insurance, are as follows:
Motorboat $20 for 30 mins.
Covered Boat $20 for 30 mins.
Water cycle $20 for 15 mins.
Rowboat $15 for 30 mins.
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