Kapal to Mengwi
Along the northern side of the main road in Kapal, a grand pura
puseh temple has relief panels on its outer wall depicting scenes
from the Ramayana. The eyes of the monkeys and the demons are
painted white, which was the fashion in the '20s and '30s in south
Bali. The long bale gede pavilion, which is clearly visible from
the road, was provided with fresh paint early in 1989. Shiny black-and-white
and red-and-white checkered patterns dominate.
The cattle market in Bringkit just past Kapal is held once every
three days. Here, herds of buffaloes and cows crowd the road and
often block traffic along the DenpasarTabanan thoroughfare. To
watch the traders bargaining over these beasts is as exciting
as watching a cockfight in the old days.
The village of Mengwi, the former political center of the region,
is reached via a turnoff to the right just past Bringkit. Traveling
north for 3 km, one soon enters the town, and just west of the
main crossroads, the palace of the present Cokorda is to be found.
It is surrounded by grey walls and in the northern corner stands
a large, square bell tower with lovely carvings.
A hundred meters east of the crossroads lies the fabulous state
temple of Mengwi, Pura Taman Ayun. Taman Ayun refers to a huge
open space (ayun) representing a garden (taman). It was constructed
under Cokorda Munggu around 1740, and was restored and enlarged
in 1937. It "floats," as it were, surrounded by a moat
with lotuses. Ibis represents the heavens, where divine nymphs
and ancestors relax in floating pavilions and enjoy themselves.
At present, one may row round the sanctuary in a little rented
boat.
The temple consists of a forecourt, a central court and a spacious
inner court. A tall stone gateway with wooden doors leads into
it. The inner court has rows of shrines on the north and east
sides and carved stone pedestals with wooden pavilions the west.
The total number of structures is 27. Apart from the divine ancestor
of the dynasty the mountains so important to Mengwi (Agung, Batur,
Batukaru, Pengelengan) are represented here by means of shrines
with slender tiered roofs in the north and the east. Replicas
of temples founded by the rulers of Mengwi atop these mountains
(Pura Pucak) and bordering the sea (Pura Ulun Siwi), and of state
temples built by former Mengwi rulers (Pura Sada, Pura Bekak)
are to be found as well.
The basement of a pavilion in which the brahman priest prepares
holy water during temple festivals (bale pawedan) is provided
with a relief series on Arjuna, who meditated to receive a grant
from the gods and was tested by means of nymphs who tried to seduce
him. A recent addition is a colorful painting on the wooden wall
of the bale murda pavilion. The barong from Seseh is displayed
during its visit to the temple a month after Galungan. It represents
Siwa's demonic son Kala, who after having stolen the magic elixir
(amreta), is chased by the host of gods.
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