Visiting the islands
Nusa Penida is the ideal place to get off the beaten track, and
to seek quietude and authenticity. The inhabitants here speak
Balinese, with a local accent and vocabulary influenced by Sasak,
but for them Bali is another world to which they go only from
time to time. The form of ceremonies, such as weddings and cremations
is similar to those in Bali, but in other ways these islands remind
one of Lombok or Sumbawa.
In Nusa Penida, there is almost no tourism yet. It is wonderful
to walk, ride on ojek two wheeled taxis, or drive through the
villages in the highlands and along the shore to experience the
island's rough beauty. It is also a rare experience to spend the
night in a local home, as people are very friendly.
Several sights are worth visiting, such as karang Sari Cave, the
spring at Sakti and sebuluh Waterfall near Batu Madeg. The most
interesting temple is Ratu Gede kecaling's Pura Peed, 3 kms east
of Toya Pakeh. In the smaller sanctuary here, a strange tree composed
of three entangled ones grows, and from the trunk a stone mouth
of Mecaling's minister protrudes. The temple odalan falls on Buda
Cemeng Kelawu. Every three years on the fourth full moon (Purnama
Kapat), a great festival (usaba) is also held, during which pilgrims
from all over Bali come to pray at Pura Peed.
The Gandrung Dance, performed by two young boys clad in women's
attire is still practiced in Plilit (Sekartaji) and Cemulik (Sakti)
on Kajeng Kliwon, Purnama and Tilem according to the Balinese
calendar. It is inspired by a dance of the same name in West Lombok.
Baris Pati is performed in cemeteries at the time of cremations,
in simpler costumes than on Bali. Baris Gede is danced at the
odalan at Batu Ngulapan (Batu Nungul). Sanghyang Jaran exorcistic
dances are held in times of crisis in Kutampi and Sakti.
Nusa Lembongan is a small island covered with coconut trees, mangrove
forests, small farms, and is surrounded by coral reefs. The island
is split between two villages, Jungut Batu and Lembongan. About
75 percent of its population is involved with seaweed farming.
The relaxed atmosphere on the island is synchronized with the
cycles of the tides. Villagers are seen planting, replanting,
and drying the seaweed. Much of this activity takes place on the
beach so it is difficult to find an isolated beach for sunbathing. |
