Temple categories
A dual structure underlies the Besakih sanctuary as a whole through
a division of the sacred areas into two parts. Pura Penataran
Agung is the main temple "above the steps." Its counterpart
"below the steps" is Pura Dalem Puri, the "Temple
of Palace Ancestors." This small but very important temple,
associated with an early dynasty of the 12th century, is dedicated
to the goddess identified as Batari Durga, goddess of death and
of the graveyard, as well as of magic power.
The Hindu Trinity of Brahma, Wisnu and Siwa is the basis of a
three-part grouping that links the three largest temples. Pura
Penataran Agung, the central temple, honors Siwa; Pura Dangin
Kreteg ("Temple East of the Bridge") honors Brahma,
and Pura Batu Madeg ("Temple of the Standing Stone")
honors Wisnu. On festival days, banners and hangings in their
colors represent these deities. Pura Batu Madeg in particular
has a fine row of meru.
A five-way grouping links these three temples with two others,
each being associated with a cardinal direction and a color. Pura
Penataran Agung is at the center. Surrounding it are Pura Gelap
(east/white), Pura Dangin Kreteg (south/red), Pura Ulun Kulkul
(west/yellow) and Pura Batu Madeg (north/black). This five-way
classification, the so-called panca dewata, is extremely important
in Balinese Hinduism. At Besakih, however, it seems to have been
a relatively late development, as it is not mentioned in Besakih's
sacred charter, the Raja Purana, which probably dates from the
18th century.
The gods descend
The unity of the complex of 22 public temples becomes manifest,
above all, in Besakih's great annual festival, the Bhatara Turun
Kabeh or "Gods Descend Together" rite. This falls on
the full moon of the 10th lunar month (purnama kadasa), in March
or April. During this month-long festival, the gods of all temples
on Bali take up residence in the main shrine at Besakih. Tens
of thousands of people from all over the island come to worship
at the triple lotus throne, and solemn rituals are conducted by
brahmanaa high priest
In terms of numbers of worshippers, the annual ritual at Pura
Dalem Puri is also quite remarkable. Within the 24-hour period
of this festival, soon after the new moon of the 7th lunar month
(around January), vast crowds pay homage here, presenting special
offerings with which to insure the well-being family members whose
death rites were completed the previous year.
But these great rituals are only the most in important out of
a total of more than 70 held regularly at the different temples
and shrines at Besakih. Almost every shrine in Pura Penataran
Agung, for instance, has its own anniversary, almost all of which
are fixed according to the indigenous Balinese wuku calendar.
The most important festivals, however, follow the lunar calendar.
These include rituals conducted by brahmana priests at four of
the five main temples, and also a series of agricultural rites
culminating in two of Besakih's most interesting ceremonies the
Usaba Buluh and Usaba Ngeed, which center around the Pura Banua
dedicated to Bhatari Sri, goddess of lice and prosperity. With
the exception of the brahmana rituals mentioned above, most ceremonies
at Besakih are conducted by Besakih's own pemangku. |
