Ujung and Mt Seraya
Apart from being a man well-versed in letters, tile last king
of Karangasem, Anak Agung Anglurah Ketut, was also an assiduous
builder of opulent pleasure palaces for his frequent excursions
to the countryside with his wives and children. In fact, during
his lifetime he built no less than three different "water
palaces" at Ujung, Tirtagangga and Jungtitan respectively.
Ujung, 8 km to the south of Amlapura, is a small fishing village
with distinct Islamic arid Hindu-Balinese quarters. The lavish
palace complex here - a vast pool bordered by small pavilions
with a massive stained glass and stucco bungalow in the center
was completely destroyed by the eruption of Mt Agung and subsequent
earthquakes. Little else but a few sculptures and portals remain,
though there are plans a foot to restore the palace to its original
condition as it tourist attraction.
Just before Ujung there is road to the left leading toward Bukit
Kangin ("eastern hill") where there is a panoramic view
of the area and a temple dedicated to the founder of the royal
dynasty. On the full moon of the fifth month (usually in November)
several villages with close ties to the ruling dynasty participate
in a festival at this temple.
From the beach at Ujung, a new road climbs up to the village of
Seraya, perched on the southern flanks of Mt Seraya Bali's easternmost
peak (1175 in). This is one of the most and areas in Bali, and
the road here hugs the hills high above the coast, offering splendid
panoramas of the surrounding terrain and across the sea to distant
Lombok. From Seraya, the road continues around the mountain and
descends gradually on the northern side to the fishing and salt-making
village of Amed. Though a distance of only about 30 km, the entire
drive takes several hours as the road is quite steep and winding.
From Amed one can return to Amlapura or continue along the northern
coastal route through the villages of Kubu and Tianyar toward
Singaraja. The north coastal region suffered greatly from the
eruption of Mt Agung, and was transformed into an arid wasteland
with dramatic, black lava flows reaching right down to the sea.
Until well into the 1980s the road was not very serviceable, but
it is now in very good condition and offers beautiful views of
the rugged northern slopes of Mt Agung. There is also excellent
diving in the coastal reefs off Tianyar, where the sunken wreck
of a WW 11 ship provides a home for a host of colorful marine
life.
Refreshing pools at Tirtagangga
The cool, spring-fed pools at Tirtagangga which literally means
"Ganges Water" and refers to the sacred river of the
Hindus - are located some 15 km northwest of Amlapura along the
main road toward Singaraja. A dip in the pools is deliciously
refreshing after a long drive, and they are surrounded by a captivating
landscape of terraced rice fields. The village itself is small
and quiet, and is a good place to pause and rest for several hours
or even several days - to take advantage of the many delightful
walks from here.
One can stay overnight inside the pool complex itself, known officially
as Tirta Ayu ("lovely waters"), where a son of the last
king of Karangasem operates a small home stay. Another exciting
possibility is to stay in a small lodging on a nearby hill with
a view over the famous Tirtagangga rice terraces. |
