Off to the races
The water buffalo races of west Bali, known as Mekepung and imported
by the local Madurese population, are the most dramatic of Jembrana's
events. Throughout the westernmost districts, it is still common
to see a team of brawny, grey or pink buffalo pulling wooden carts
filled with cacao, coffee or bananas. Mekepung began when farmers
playfield raced their neighbors in plowing a field or in bringing
the harvest home. The races soon became an event in themselves,
and the cumbersome cikar carts were replaced by light, two-wheeled
chariots.
Today, the races are organized by the regional government of Jembrana.
All participants are members of a racing club (sekehe mekepung)
and are divided into two divisions: a Western Block and an Eastern
Block, with the Ijo Gading River that bisects Jembrana as the
dividing line. These teams compete biannually, in the Regent's
Cup Championship on the Sunday before Indonesian Independence
Day in August, and the Governor's Cup Championship each September
or October.
The buffaloes in each team are ranked prior to the races, and
pitted against its counterpart on the other team. Two pairs run
at a time, along a circuitous 4 km route. The team with the most
winners takes the cup. Apart from this, the only immediate reward
for winning is prestige, but owning a prize buffalo does eventually
translate into money. A good race animal can fetch almost double
the normal price, if its owner is willing to part with it.
If you are in Jembrana between August and October you can find
out the time and place of the championships by visiting the Department
of Tourism in Negara. You can also see races at other times of
the year by commissioning a performance or by attending the rehearsals
that take place every other Sunday morning.
To find out about these options, contact the leaders of the sekehe
mekepung. I Ketut Suelem or I Ketut Dibia in the town of Banyubiru,
five kilometers west of Negara, or I Ketut Wenong of Delod Brawah,
two kilometers southwest of Tegalcangkring. Rehearsals may be
infrequent during the rainy season (November through March).
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