Royalty and the Sacred
Banyan Tree
The bemo men on the roads from the south yell "nyar, nyar,
nyar" in loud nasal tones, delighting in stretching the syllable
as long as they can. Nyar is short for Gianyar, once a center
of royal power, priestly learning and the arts. Today this political
and administrative capital has been passed over by the tourist
boom, but in one area of Creative endeavor it still reigns supreme:
Gianyar has Bali's best roast pig or babi guling. This most exquisite
and festive of Balinese dishes can be had in a number of stalls
in the market or near the main square, though everyone you ask
has their own favorite and will argue its merits against all comers.
Despite the absence of tourists, the town and its surrounding
districts are full of places of interest. This can be a good place
to get a feel for Balinese history and culture in a nontouristed
atmosphere. The heart of Gianyar is the palace or the Puri, one
of the best preserved of all Bali's royal houses, and home of
Anak Agung Gede Agung - heir to the throne of Gianyar, former
Foreign Minister ambassador and a prominent political leader in
the 1940s and '50s.
Unfortunately, the splendors of the palace are not open to casual
visitors. But from out side the walls, one can appreciate the
majesty of an ornamented observation pavilion over looking the
garden near the main crossroads of Gianyar. Tantri animal fables
are depicted in carvings on the lower part of the outside wall
at the crossroads. This palace is also one of the few in Bali
to maintain the waringin or sacred banyan tree, which was the
symbol of Balinese and Javanese courts. Gianyar's still stands
in the open town square across from the palace, preserving the
feel of a 19th century royal town.
The palace of Gianyar was founded in 18th century, but rebuilt
in a more splendid style when the Gianyar dynasty was restored
at the end of the 19th. The original palace was said to have been
constructed on the site of a priest's house or griya. The name
"Gianyar" is in fact an abbreviated form of griya anyar
or "new priest's house."
Just next to the palace is the Pura Langon, the "Temple of
Beauty," which is the major temple for the extended royal
family, and one of the state temples of Gianyar. Further to the
west is the Griya Sidawa home of the major priestly family of
the area and one of Bali's most famous centers of learning and
priestly tradition.
Other state temples can be found nearby, at Beng and to the south,
on the coast at Lebih. The temple at Beng is for the descendents
of Dewa Manggis, who founded the royal line. At Lebih, a few kilometers
to the south of the town of Gianyar, is the Pura Segara or "Sea
Temple," which is visited in the course of many different
festivals that occur all over Gianyar. The temple is situated,
where the land meets the sea, in sight of the demon's island of
Nusa Penida, and is regarded as a "hot spot" a place
where magical forces can be harnessed. Attempts are currently
underway to promote this pleasant seaside region as a new beach
resort.
On the road going south from the Gianyar town square to Lebih
stands a Chinese temple, one of only a handful found on Bali.
Another, smaller temple can also be seen on the road to the west
of Gianyar, just past the village of Kemenuh, hidden below the
road in a ravine. Nineteenth century visitors remarked on the
strong Chinese presence here, stating that it was once one of
the wealthiest states in Bali and a center for trade. The temples
recall the strong links that once existed between the community
of traders and the royal family of Gianyar who were their patrons.
When the palace was rebuilt at the end of the last century, the
Chinese community contributed to the work, and many of the buildings
show a Chinese style of roofing. |
