Bali's finest dalangs
Sukawati residents are proud that their town has a complex of
temples unrivaled outside of Besakih. The complete sad kahyangan
group of six temples for the former Sukawati kingdom are here.
The Pura Penataran Agung temple at the center of Sukawati is a
pilgrimage site for all members of the royal houses of the surrounding
areas - Tegallalang, Ubud, Peliatan, Batuan, Mas, Negara and Singapadu.
Destroyed in an earthquake in 1917, the temple was rebuilt on
a smaller scale, which has in no way affected its importance.
Next door to the temple is the Pura Kawitan Dalem Sukawati which
still boasts panel carvings of Tantri tales besides several unusual
statues in the outer courtyard.
The massive candi bentar gate of the Pura Desa on the northeastern
corner of the town is a tribute to the continuing excellence of
local craftsmen. Also famous throughout Bali are the tukang wadah
craftsmen of the great cremation towers required for royal funeral
ceremonies, and the tukang prada - makers of gold-painted costumes
and umbrellas.
Sukawati is best known, however, for its many shadow-puppet masters
or dalang. As many as 20 of these artists and their troupes are
available for hire for ceremonial occasions and they travel all
over Bali to perform. The Balinese say that the dalang of Sukawati
are the best on the island because of many generations of experience.
Two famous dalangs live in Banjar Babakan behind the produce market.
I Wayan Wija, known for his unusual wayang tantri, and I Wayan
Nartha, may both be contacted to commission a shadow play or a
special set of puppets. Anyone in the banjar can direct you to
their houses. Another big name dalang in Sukawati is Ganjreng.
A scholar and member of the sangging caste of artisans, I Nyoman
Sadia has turned from his family tradition of stone carving to
making fine gold jewelry. His house and shop are just off the
main road at JI. Sersan Wayan Pugig 5.
The commercial center of town is the Pasar Seni or Art Market.
With patience and a sense of humor one can find bargains here
on everything from woodcarvings to paintings. Along the main road,
shops cater to local needs - such as baskets and ceremonial umbrellas.
Directly across the road is an open-air produce market. North
of this is the present site of the Puri Agung, where visitors
wishing for an in-depth exploration of the town can overnight.
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