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The legong dance
 
Peliatan
 

Some of the musicians from the Paris tour are still alive. One is the master drummer and ugal player, I Made Lebah's son, I Wayan Gandra. His electric style of drumming can be heard on Saturday nights at Dalem Puri, wlien the Gunung Sari troupe performs. Also from this area, I Made Grindem, who died in 1989, brought the Peliatan style of gender playing to a high art form in Teges Kanginan. His son, Wayang Lantir, carries on the tradition.

Peliatan today boasts 15 gamelan groups, including: gong kebyar, gong semar pegulingan, gong angklung and joged bumbung. Almost every banjar owns at least one set of instruments and you can hear the haunting sounds of the gamelan in the Peliatan area nearly every night, whether in rehearsal or performance.

In 1987, Peliatan's women's gamelan, Mekar Sari, was begun under the tutelage of Gung Kak. Now the group performs every Sunday night at 7:30 pm in Banjar Teruna. The dancers are all under 12 years old. The Gong Kebyar Gunung Sari also puts on a dazzling show at Pura Dalem Puri in Baniar Tebesaya every Thursday and Saturday at 7 Pm. The more lyrical sounds of the Tirta Sari Semar Pegulingan (with two different legongs) can be heard on Friday night at Banjar Teruna. And every Tuesday at 7:30 pin in Banjar Teges Kawan, the Gong Kebyar Semara Jati presents a variety of fine dances and dance dramas.

The traditional and the modern continue to flourish side-by-side here. Anak Agung Oka Dalem, one of Gung Kak's children, excels in the kebyar styles which Peliatan put on the map 40 years ago. In 1982, he founded Padma Nara Suara (PANAS for short), a dance group that fuses modern choreography and costuming with traditional Balinese dance movements. One could say that PANAS is the Busby Berkeley of Bali.

Carving and painting

Peliatan is also a village of carvers and painters. Everywhere you go you see orchids, fruits, frogs, ducks and birds being fashioned out of wood. These are all of course for tourists. Two of the more exceptional carvers are I Wayan Pasti whose life size horses and dogs will make you do a double-take - and I Nyoman Togog (the original "fruit man"), who received a Presidential award in 1985.

I Ketut Madra of Banjar Kalah is an excellent painter in the traditional wayang style. He is not a businessman by nature and does not have a gallery, but likes to show his work to visitors and accepts special commissions.

To view the classical painting style of the 1930s, visit any one of the following: I Gusti Made Kuanji in Banjar Teruna, I Nyoman Kuta in Banjar Tengah and Ida Bagus Made in Tebesaya. For an overview of Balinese painting, pop into the Agung Rai Museum of Art on the road to Pengosekan from Peliatan. If you see something you like, you can probably look up the artist nearby in his home.

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