Home of the Legendary
Legong
This small village of 6,300 is often overlooked, though it lies
just 2 km southeast of the tourist village of Ubud on the main
road. Rich in the arts, and not as full of tourists as Ubud, it
is definitely worth a visit particularly if you are interested
in dance and music.
'That which is seen'
The Peliatan court actually preceded the Ubud court. Although
the dates are unclear, the 17th century Babad Dalem Sukawati (a
chronicle of the Sukawati court) recounts an argument between
two princes I Dewa Agung Gede and I Dewa Agung Made - that resulted
in two separate courts.
The former ran off to Blahbatuh and the latter to Tegallalang
taking with him a sacred heirloom, the Segara Ngelayang spear
that is now kept in the Peliatan palace. I Dewa Agung Made later
moved to Peliatan to be closer to his ancestral home in Sukawati.
His children then set up palaces in Ubud, and to this day Ubud
royalty still pay homage to their cousins in Peliatan.
Peliatan literally means "that which is seen," and according
to some accounts this refers to the fact that Sukawati is within
view down the road. Others claim that a former king of Peliatan
was given religious instruction here by a priest and was therefore
able to "see" the famous temple of Gunung Sari, before
it was built. Today, this temple is a favorite with dancers and
musicians who come here in search of taksu (inspiration).
Bali's most notable legong
Peliatan is best known for its legong a graceful dance traditionally
performed by two pre-pubescent girls in glittering costumes. Indeed,
the Balinese dance troupe to travel abroad was legong group from
Peliatan that performed at the Paris Exhibition in 1931 under
the leader ship of the late Anak Agung Gede Mandera (affectionately
known as "Gung Kak") a man who excelled in both music
and dance. The group's performances created a sensation; it was
then, for example, that French actor Antonin Artaud first witnessed
the Balinese barong. Gung Kak's descendants still carry on the
tradition a 1989 tour to the United States included many of his
family members, as did one to Japan in 1997.
Traditions of dance and music in Bali are passed from teacher
to pupil and parent to child. Some teachers become very famous,
such as Peliatan's Gusti Biang Sengog. A famous dancer in her
prime, she was recorded for posterity in the film Miracle of Bali:
Midday Sun teaching young women who have all become prominent
dancers today.
If you like, you can witness Peliatan's young stars in action.
To see the tiny legongs, travel east from Peliatan to Teges Kanginan
- this is one of the few places on Bali where tile dancers are
still trained in the traditional manner. One of the remaining
repositories of Peliatan style legong is Sang Ayu Ketut Muklin,
from the neighboring village of Pejeng. She is of the same age
and caliber as Gusti Biang Sengog.
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