Surprising Art and
Craft Villages
The neighboring villages of Batubulan, Celuk and Singapadu are
the first in a series of surprising art and craft centers that
one encounters going north along the main road from Denpasar toward
Ubud. These villages have garnered fame for a variety of skills:
Batubulan for its barong dance and stone carving, Singapadu for
its gong saron and gong gede music, and Celuk for its silver and
goldsmith.
Batubulan: home of the barong
Ten km northeast of Denpasar, Batubulan is a village known throughout
Bali for its ornate door-guardian statues, carved of soft paras
volcanic tuff. Until these became popular for secular use earlier
in this century, the carvings were only used in temples or palaces,
but this art form has spread extensively in recent years and is
today found in homes and public buildings. Made Leceg and Made
Sura, two of the most famous carvers of the area, continue the
legacy of their mentor, the late Made Loji. Both have shops on
the main road where carvings can be purchased and packed and shipped
home.
Batubulan is also home to three famous Barong Dance troupes who
perform seven times a week at 9.30am on their own stages before
bus-loads of enthralled tourists. The development of these groups
parallels that of tourism in Bali, but even so the Batubulan barong
troupes are relatively young. The first the Danjalan Barong Group,
was established in 1970, while the Tegaltamu and Puri Agung groups
were formed later. The three troupes also perform on a large stage
that was constructed especially for this purpose in the outer
courtyard of Pura Puseh Bendul in 1986.
While in the neighborhood, Pura Puseh Batubulan is well worth
visiting. Four statues of Wisnu poised on carved pedestals embellished
with Tantri tales guard the temple. If you care to shop for antiques,
Puri Sakana on the main road offers an extensive range of antique
reproductions, furniture and beads.
Celuk: jewelry of silver and gold
Although many arts and crafts have prospered in Celuk, the village
has evolved into a center for silver and gold smiting. Almost
every home in the village contains small scale production facilities
fulfilling orders placed by large shops and exporters. Bracelets,
rings, earrings and brooches, to name a few of a wide range of
products produced here, have started to enter the export market.
The silver and gold craft trade was pioneered by the Beratan clan
of smiths (pande). Nowadays most Celuk residents, whether or not
they are members of the Pande clan, have become gold and silversmiths.
Made Kawi and Wayan Kardana are among the better craftsmen. Be
sure to bargain.
Along the main road between Batubulan and Celuk you will find
about 40 art shops, most of which sell gold and silver jewelry.
Keraton Gold and Silver Collection, Celuk Silver and Aditya Art
Shop have particularly good selections. Other shops, such as Wirama
Antiques and Modern Art and Bali Souvenir, sell masks, statues,
old basketry and textiles, among other things.
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