Pura Beji is a subak temple, that is, a temple belonging to a
rice irrigation association. The path leading to its great, arched
entrance is flanked by two serpents. The front of the arch overflows
with floral motives interspersed with demon heads. Its reverse
is adorned with mask-like heads - some of which have been painted
- garuda heads, and floral ornamentation. The main shrines have
been carved just as elaborately. The beauty of this soft-pink
sandstone temple is augmented by the large gnarled frangipani
trees growing in its courtyard. Note the faded paintings on two
pavilions, clearly the work of master craftsmen.
Further examples of old and interesting villages are found not
far to the south of Sangsit at Jagaraga, Menyali and Sawan. To
get there return to the main road and take the right-hand fork
at the next T-intersection.
Jagaraga, the site of fierce fighting between the Dutch and Balinese
in the 1840s, bears no obvious signs of this struggle. Visit Jagaraga's
Pura Dalem on which the foreign presence in Buleleng has been
captured with great humor. See, for example, the relief of a European
riding in a car held up by a knife-wielding bandit. However, such
caricatures are few; this temple is dominated by the terrifying
widow-witch Rangda.
From Jagaraga drive through Menyali and follow, the road as it
climbs to Sawan, home of a well-known gamelan and iron smith who
can be watched at work. Head for the center of Sawan and ask for
directions.
The three km past the Jagaraga turn-off is the old village of
Kubutambahan, best known for its Pura Meduwe Karang temple, which
perches high up on the left side of the road. This temple is dedicated
to the Lord of Dry Fields; those who cultivate dry fields worship
here. The style of this temple, though more, restrained than Pura
Beji, is impressive.
Three tiers of stone statues which are said to number thirty-four
figures from the Ramayana are stationed outside the temple. Floral
motives predominate within the temple walls. Famous among the
relief's is an old one of a Dutch man riding a bicycle, its back
wheel a lotus flower. It is located on the northern wall of the
inner shrine.
Seventeen km from Singaraja is the well known beach resort of
Air Sanih. Its main attraction is not its beach but rather a swimming
pool located near the beach. Its icy water originates from a spring
and is said to flow at a rate of 800 liters per second. Not as
popular with visitors as Lovina, Air Sanih with its accommodation
and restaurants is, nevertheless, a good place to recuperate if
you are traveling in the area.
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