Baroque Temples and Playful Reliefs
East Buleleng is noted for its archaic villages and its unique
temple architecture, especially those found around the coastal
area from Singaraja to Kubutambahan and the region to the south.
Time and again visitors have labeled this style of architecture
"baroque" for so heavily adored with relief are the
temples that it seems no piece of stone has been spared then chisel.
Another feature of this style relates to the carving of the heads
and hands both of temple statues and of characters in relief's:
they protrude to such a degree that it seen-ns as if the figures
lie in wait to pounce upon suspecting passers-by.
Singaraja to Air Sanih
Not far from Singaraja are some fine examples of charming old
villages set amid lush vegetation - Simabun, Suwug and Sudaji,
reached along a scenic road by turning right at the T-intersection
prior to Sangsit.
The best example of Buleleng baroque architecture is encountered
at Pura Beji in the village of Sangsit, 8 km from singaraja. A
small sign on the left hand side of the road announces the location
of the temple. If you subscribe to the view that once you have
seen one temple, you have seen them all, then cast this misapprehension
aside, for Pura Beji is work of art.
Air Sanih to Tejakula
Situated on the coast 7 km east of Air Sanih is the important
temple of Pura Ponjok Batu. Built atop a hill it affords a fine
view of the ocean and some splendid frangipani trees. Cross the
road to the small fenced-in shrine that encloses a number of stones.
It is said that the 16th century priest Nirartha, drawn to the
site by its immense beauty, sat on one of these stones as he composed
poetry.
For a change from Hindu Bali visit the "Bali Aga" village
of Sembiran, 6 km east of Pura Ponjok Batu. A steep, narrow winding
road brings you into Sembiran. The layout of the village differs
from that of predominantly Hindu villages. However, Hindu influence
is nowadays visible in the form of temples. The village appears
poor with its many mud brick dwellings roofed with zinc sheets.
There are excellent views back to the coast.
Tejakula, 3 km past the Sembiran turnoff, is the last important
port of call in east Buleleng. Visit Banjar Pande, the ward of
silversmiths, and watch them at work as they produce Balinese
religious items and jewelry. Also be sure to see the famous horse
bath. To get there, turn south at the T-intersection. This large,
elaborate structure with its graceful arches has been turned into
a public bathing area.
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