Surf-Wracked Shores
of Southern Bali
The first thing which strikes the visitor to Bukit Badung, the
bulbous peninsula at Bali's southernmost tip, is that the landscape
is totally different from the rest of the island. Most of Bali
is volcanic - rich soils watered year round by run-off from mountain
lakes and streams, which support a lush, tropical vegetation.
In contrast, the Bukit is a non-volcanic limestone plateau which
has its own unique ecology.
The so-called "hill" for that is what "Bukit"
means has an ecosystem characterized by its lack of surface water.
The soil lies on a base of cracked and porous limestone, and any
rain, which does fall quickly, seeps through fissures to a very
low water table. The area is thus ill suited to agriculture during
the dry season, when the scrubby vegetation looks more Mediterranean
than tropical. During the rainy season, however, the area's vegetation
becomes quite lush and crops of soybeans, sorghum, cashew nuts,
manioc, beans of various sorts and even corn, flourish.
The plateau which constitutes most of the peninsula rises abruptly
to about 200 in above sea level, and is ringed on all sides by
steep cliffs. It is connected to the rest of Bali by a narrow
isthmus, upon which lies the village of Jimbaran. Many lovely
beaches line the shores of the peninsula and the isthmus, although
access is often difficult. The biggest and best-known beach is
just beyond the airport, on the western side of the Jimbaran isthmus.
More secluded and equally beautiful sands are found further to
the south, at the foot of steep cliffs along the western and southern
shores of the Bukit plateau.
The whole area has a host of natural attractions for those willing
to invest the time to explore. Grand, gray-white cliffs overlook
long, white rollers world famous among surfers. Graceful boats
sway at anchor in tranquil Jimbaran bay. The quiet and empty bush
areas of the elevated plateau are ideal for experienced hikers
(though few good maps of the area are available). The region also
boasts places of cultural significance, the most renowned being
Uluwatu Temple Luhur Uluwatu).
A glimpse of the past
The Bukit bears witness to a long history. There are limestone
caves all over the area and evidence of prehistoric human occupation
have been found in Gua Selonding. Before Uluwatu became a Hindu
temple, it was the site of worship for more ancient cults The
foundation of the temple itself is dated Balinese tradition to
the 11th century.
The poverty of the soil and its geographical isolation have shaped
the social landscape of Bukit Badung. There was never any wet
rice farming and other crops and cattle-breeding did not suffice
to feed the population. So those who could not subsist through
farming cattle-raising and crafts, looked to the sea for salt,
lime and fish. Others migrated to rice growing areas. Old men
of Sukawati still talk of Bukit peddlars exchanging betel lime
and salt for gleaning and accommodation right Bukit Badung is
also known as a region where the overlords of Mengwi and Badung
banished malcontents and defaulting debtors Nowadays the population
is growing, the region having become a major focal point of Bali's
relentless tourism boom.
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