Badung, the southernmost regency
of Bali, is the most heavily populated area of the island - with
an average density of more than 1,000 persons per square km. Partly
this is because Denpasar, the island's capital and principal metropolis
is here. Also, Bali's major tourist resorts are all in Badung,
and the tourist boom of the past two decades has fueled a rapid
economic expansion and population influx to this traditional southern
court center.
Extending north-south from the lofty central volcanic ridge of
the island to the rich rice-growing plains around Denpasar, the
regency of Badung is geographically defined by a distributor network
of rivers and streams fed from the Plaga rain-catchments area
in the north. The clubfoot-shaped Bukit Peninsula in the far south
stands apart - its limestone formations, thin topsoil and lack
of water make it poor and sparsely populated.
Ill-favored as it is, the Bukit peninsula nevertheless demarcates
the Benoa bay and harbor area through which southern Bali traditionally
maintained contacts with the outside world. Ships coming from
the Bali Strait would sail along the white beaches of the western
shore, round the inhospitable cliffs of the Bukit, and anchor
in the reef-sheltered cove behind Kuta. Alluvium now clogs up
the back channel to Kuta, but a land bridge has been built out
into the bay to create the new Port of Benoa here. Having reverted
to marshlands, the coast is now being developed into fishponds.
Badung's historical role is due to its pivotal position, allowing
control over the three major elements of Balinese economic life:
irrigation, rice and the sea. Indianization took Place early here,
as evidenced by the Prasasti Blaniong inscription, dating from
the 10th century. Besides Bugis settlements, there are also Chinese
tombs and dances named after the Chinese - such as the famed baris
cina of Semawang and Renon.
The town of Denpasar, also known as Badung, did not enter the
limelight until the last century. The early island kingdoms were
all farther east, in Gianyar and Klungkung. But soon after the
Javanese conquest of the 14th century, western princes arose and
for a time Mengwi held sway over the whole of western Bali. After
the 18th century, as foreign merchants and warships became more
intrusive, power shifted to the sea. This was an historic opportunity
for Badung's Pemecutan clan, who defeated Mengwi in 1891.
Pemecutan's rule was short-lived. The Dutch were at this time
expanding their territories, and having subdued northern Bali
in the mid-19th century, they pushed their claims of suzerainty
south with increasing confidence. Many pretexts were used rights
of trade, recognition of the Dutch crown and flag, ritual suicide
of widows (suttee). One eventually drew blood.
It started as a common event a ship ran aground on the reef off
Sanur. The Chinese crew survived, but the cargoes disappeared.
The Dutch demanded reparations but the raja refused and two years
later, in 1906, Dutch troops landed at Sanur. The king chose death
over surrender. Dressed in white loincloths, row after row of
kris and spearwielding Balinese hurled themselves into the Dutch
gunfire. For them, this was an honorable road to Indra's heaven,
abode of fallen warriors.
Its palaces destroyed, its king and warriors dead, Badung surrendered.
From the ruins of the palace, a young boy was saved the last survivor
of the proud royal house of Pemecutan. Today, the royal line continues.
On July 15th, 1989, the boy's grandson was installed as the new
Cokorda or King of Pemecutan. The new king is a businessman, his
palace a hotel.
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